Wine Spectator
2004 Meyer Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Review by: James Laube
Wine Spectator
October 15, 2007
Rating: 90 points
Dark, rich and plush, this is tightly focused, with a complex, concentrated band of spice, currant, black cherry and wild berry fruit that's well-proportioned. Has a long, intense, persistent finish, ending with a dash of herb and sage. Best from 2008 through 2013.
Wine Spectator Insider
2003 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Review by: James Laube
Wine Spectator Insider Vol 2, No. 11 May 31, 2006
Rating: 92 points
Firm, intense and concentrated, with complex blackberry, tobacco, cassis and anise flavors that are tightly wound and sharply focused, finishing with chewy tannins and a delicious burst of fruit. Best from 2008 through 2012.
Wine Spectator Insider
2002 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Review by: James Laube
Wine Spectator Insider Vol 1, No. 22
July 27, 2005
Rating: 90 points
Rich and fleshy, with a ripe band of black cherry, plum and wild berry shaded by mocha and vanilla-laced oak flavors and finishing with good concentration, depth and firm tannins. Best from 2006 through 2012.
Wine Spectator
NAPA'S IMPRESSIVE NEWCOMERS
10 Names You Should Know And Search Out in Your Quest For The Best
By: Maryann Worobiec Bovio
November 15, 2005
There's no shortage of new labels when it comes to Napa Cabernet. But how do you know if you've got the next hot thing, or just a flash in the pan with a hefty bottle and a fancy label? What follows are brief profiles of some of the most exciting new labels that, in just a vintage or two, have earned reputations for high quality. Many of these wines are difficult to find in retail shops, so your strategy should be to sign up for mailing lists or keep an eye out for them at top restaurants. Though their styles and winemakers differ, they all have one thing in common: They come from the promised land of California Cabernet - Napa Valley.
What makes these producers stand out? Some of them, such as O'Shaughnessy, Detert, Jericho Canyon and Versant, have proven vineyard sources. Other labels may lack their own vineyards but have passionate people behind them, like Xtant, a new label from a pair of wine industry veterans. With some labels, it's a case of follow the winemaker: Mark Herold not only made a splash this year with the 2002 Merus, he's also winemaker for four other labels included here, each with its own stunning debut. And winemaker Michael Hirby should be on everyone's radar screen. These are the rising stars in the Napa Cabernet universe.
HESTAN VINEYARDS
Hong Kong-born Stanley Cheng is chairman of Meyer Corp., a manufacturer of cookware brands such as Farberware, Circulon and KitchenAid. Cheng and his wife, Helen, also own a 127-acre ranch in eastern Napa, which they purchased in 1996. "From [being] wine lovers [came] the motivation to develop some vineyards. We didn't know we could make [such] great wines from them," Stanley says. In 2001, Helen was introduced to Merus wines while dining at the French Laundry in Yountville and later called the winery to get on the mailing list. Soon afterward, the couple hired Merus winemaker Mark Herold to start with their 2002 vintage, the Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2002 (91, $75, 280 cases), a rich and focused wine. Their second label, Meyer, turned out a Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2002 (90, $49, 575 cases) that is concentrated and fleshy.
The Rare Wine Co.
May 3, 2005
A NEW CABERNET STAR
Hestan's Stunning 2002 Debut
Hong-Kong born, Stanley Cheng has, over the past two decades, built up one of the world's biggest cookware empires, controlling such brands as KitchenAid, Farberware and Anolon. In 1996, he moved his world to Napa, buying a 127-acre ranch, much of which he devoted to vineyards.
For the first few years, he was content to sell his fruit to Clos du Val, but his life as a Napa Valley grower changed in August 2001, when he took his wife Helen to the French Laundry for her birthday. That night, he asked the sommelier to pick the best new Cabernet on the list, regardless of price. His choice: 1998 Merus.
Stanley was blown away by the wine and quickly asked to be put on Merus' mailing list. But another idea began to brew: hiring Merus' winemaker Mark Herold to make wine from his best grapes. To lure this rising star, he gave Mark carte blanche: the freedom to choose only his best fruit and to spare no expense in his wine making. Mark accepted in the spring of 2002. That first year, Mark went through the ranch block by block, selecting those with the potential to produce great Cabernet. As harvest approached, he looked on as Clos du Val brought in their fruit, but waited another three weeks to harvest his, when the grapes were truly ripe. He ended up harvesting only about 5% of the ranch's total production; of that, only one-third finally made it into the grand vin - a mere 275 cases of lavishly rich, hedonistic Cabernet.
Stanley also entrusted a small Chardonnay vineyard to Mark. The winemaker pulled out all the stops, producing a boldly flavored Chardonnay that's a fitting counterpart to the 2002 Cabernet. Only about 200 cases were made.
Of course, Hestan become red-hot when Robert Parker reviewed the Cabernet in February. But with such tiny production, few collectors could have hoped to find the wine. Fortunately, we received a small allocation of not only the Cabernet, but also the Chardonnay. Here's your chance; don't miss it.
The Rare Wine Co.
May 3, 2005
2003 Hestan Chardonnay
This is the first Chardonnay we've ever tasted from Mark Herold, but with its great opulence, we'd recognize it as his. Mammothly proportioned, Mark gave it the full treatment; barrel-fermentation using only free-run juice, 100% malolactic, sur lie aging with batonnage every two weeks, and unfiltered bottling. The result is a wine of Burgundian styling, but with the size that will thrill lovers of big California Chardonnay.
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Wine Advocate
2005 Hestan Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Review by: Robert Parker
December 28, 2007
Rating: 94 points
Hong Kong-born Stanley Cheng purchased 127 acres in Napa Valley and with the assistance of winemaking consultant Mark Herold, he produces just less than 500 cases of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 19-20 months in Taransaud. (They also make a Chardonnay and Syrah, but they have been unwilling to show those wines to me.) The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is a bigger, better, more complete wine this year than it was showing last year. Dense ruby/purple in color with notes of melted licorice, pain grille, blackberry, and smoke, this full-bodied wine has superb intensity, ripe tannin, good acidity, and a long, structured, but powerful and concentrated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025.
Wine Advocate
2004 Hestan Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Review by: Robert Parker
December 2006
Rating: (90-92) points
This small operation, run by Stanley and Helen Cheng with the assistance of well-known wine consultant, Mark Herold, produces 300+ cases of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 19-20 months in new oak. Tasted just prior to bottling, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as elegant, stylish notes of espresso roast, black currants, and toasty oak in a medium-bodied, soft, attractive format. It should drink well for 10-12 years.
Wine Advocate
2003 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Review by: Robert Parker
Wine Advocate #162 (Dec 2005)
Rating: 93 points
Drink: 2005-2025
Estimated Cost: $80.00
Performing even better than it did from cask, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon (288* cases of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon made by up-and-coming winemaker Mark Herold for proprietors Stanley and Helen Cheng) looks to be sensational. Its inky/blue/purple color is followed by an explosive nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with white chocolate and acacia flowers. Full-bodied, opulent, and dense with high but sweet levels of tannin, marvelous purity, and a layered finish that lasts for 40+ seconds, this superb 2003 can be drunk young or cellared for two decades.
*Correction: 525 cases
Wine Advocate
2002 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Review by: Robert Parker
Wine Advocate #157 (Feb 2005)
Rating: 95 points
Drink: 2007-2018
Estimated Cost: $75.00
Hestan’s 2002 is a 275-case cuvee of very impressive Cabernet Sauvignon. This dense, opaque blue/purple-colored offering’s smoky, graphite, black currant, and berry-scented nose is gently infused with notions of toast and spice box. Full-bodied, opulent, pure, and expansive, this layered wine exhibits a seamless integration of wood, acid, and tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.
Wine Spectator Insider
2004 Hestan Vineyards Chardonnay
Review by: James Laube
Wine Spectator Insider Vol 2, No. 12 June 14, 2006
Rating: 92 points
This wine unfolds to reveal layers of complex flavors, starting with a buttery hazelnut and vanilla oak flavor followed by rich fig, apricot and melon flavors that return to mocha and hazelnut on the finish.
Wine Spectator Insider
2003 Hestan Vineyards Chardonnay
Review by: James Laube
Wine Spectator Insider Vol 1, No. 20 July 13, 2005
Rating: 94 points
This rich, full-blown, opulent style is oozing with layers of fig, pear, apricot, spice and cedar notes. Impeccably balanced, it succeeds at delivering a load of flavor while maintaining a sense of elegance and finesse. Drink now through 2009.
Wine Spectator
Shepherding Winemaking Dreams in Napa Valley
No grapes? No barrels? No experience? Consultant Mark Herold, owner of boutique Merus Wines, is the man to call
By: Maryann Worobiec Bovio
December 15, 2003
The allure of Napa Valley is so strong that even in a tough wine market there is still no shortage of aspiring Cabernet producers, regardless of their lack of experience or other winemaking assets. Enter vintner and consulting winemaker Mark Herold. Among Herold's six clients, none has a winery, two don't have vineyards and one would rather put his vines up for "adoption" than sell his wine.
Herold's winemaking consulting business, which is in its first few years, is in many ways representative of the boutique wine scene in Napa today. Herold and his wife, Erika Gottl, own Merus Wines, a 500-case winery run out of their garage. Merus' first three vintages (1998 was the debut) of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon each rated outstanding, earning 92 to 94 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, making the winery one of California's most exciting new producers. Despite early critical success, Herold is eager to take on consulting work to make ends meet - even if it means making wines that compete with the Merus label.
"Mark has to do this for us to survive," says Gottl, admitting that they might be cannibalizing themselves by pouring attention into other ventures. "But we try to keep our spirit clear. We focus on quality. We can be threatened by them, but instead we embrace them. We want everyone around us to succeed."
Herold, a big bear of a man with a ponytail and a Ph.D. in ecology, is thoughtful and articulate when talking about winemaking. Gottl, who is president of Merus, cut through the red tape to get their home garage bonded as a winery, and Herold's clients end up asking her for advice about licensing, taxes and packaging.
Herold met his first client in 2000 through a classified ad placed by someone looking for a "consulting winemaker/mentor." Peter and Paulette Story had recently moved from their Silicon Valley home to St. Helena in Napa Valley. Winemaking was at first a hobby for Peter - until the wines came out well. But Story balked at simply selling his wine traditionally, feeling that sales would conflict with his creative process. He came up with the quirky idea of putting his vines up for "adoption". For $80 a year, you can adopt a vine, and in turn receive a photo of your adopted vine and a bottle or two of the vineyard's Sympa or Scandale Cabernet. It's a fancy way of doing a mailing list, and the Storys' St. Helena Winery has 12,000 vines on the 15-acre Fleur de Vigne vineyard in need of foster parents.
Next Herold met Michale Harris, a pediatric dentist who, along with his wife, owns a 48-acre property in Calistoga with seven acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The Harrises had sold grapes to the Paul Hobbs winery, but also dreamed of making their own wines. Herold said he was so impressed with their vineyard that he told them, "If I can't make good wine out of these grapes, you should fire me." The first Harris Estate release will be a 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Then Herold encountered Alicia and William Deem, a registered nurse and the president of a landscaping company, respectively, in Kimberton, PA., who dreamed of moving to Napa Valley. The Deems had no vineyard, no grape source and certainly no winery, yet they hired Herold to make wine for them. In a few short months, Herold found the grapes, barrels and facility to make their debut 2002 Napa Cabernet, called Buccella, a Latin term for "mouthful."
Meanwhile, Kevin Carriker, who met Herold at a winemaker's dinner, was planning on expanding his home winemaking into a commercial venture. Carriker signed Herold on to assist in securing grape sources and consult on winemaking decisions. His label is named Kobalt, a German word for a mischievous underground spirit, which Carriker came across while thumbing through a dictionary during a Scrabble game. His first Napa Valley Cabernet from the 2001 vintage, will be released next year.
Helen Cheng called Merus to be put on their mailing list after she and her husband, Stanley, had been introduced to a bottle of Merus while dining at the French Laundry, in Yountville. Stanley is chairman of Meyer Corp., a manufacturer of cookware brands such as Farberware, Circulon and KitchenAid; the couple also owns a vineyard in east Napa, and wanted to bottle their own wine. Herold was hired as consulting winemaker for 2002 vintage of their newly created Hestan label, making Cabernet Sauvignon using grapes from their vineyard, as well as grapes purchased from a site in Coombsville.
Finally, Mark Bozzini called Herold out of the blue, interested in making wine from his 25-acre Oakville vineyard. Bozzini, who was CEO of Pete's Brewing Co. for much of the 1990s, is now CEO of beverage company Infinite Spirits. Bozzini's label is called Warm Springs, and a Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc from his vineyard will be released next year.
None of those wines are bottled yet and many won't hit the shelves for several years. Barrel samples tasted by Wine Spectator indicated that the wines are ripe, plush, concentrated and flashy - similar to the style of Merus. "They want the 'wow' factor, they want concentration," says Herold of his clients. But Herold said he isn't making cookie-cutter wines and is instead tailoring wines to articulate his clients' tastes and vineyard sources. "My job is to read a vintage. You can't recipe a wine."
With all the new wines influenced by the same winemaker and priced at similar levels, Herold's success with consulting is creating some of his own future competition.
But, competition doesn't bother Herold, who believes quality will always win out. "I think there's room, in the market for good wines," he says. "Let's face it - there's a lot of bad cultish wines out there. Hopefully the public will get their own palate and focus on wines that are good on their own merit, not just on their name recognition."
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